North Shore

After so much hiking yesterday, we were ready for a somewhat less taxing day today. We decided to take our drive to the north shore of O'ahu. It turned out to be a good choice.

We started in the midst of morning rush hour in Honolulu. Clearly, people are not working from home. Traffic was a mess, and we spent a good bit of time in the linear parking lot. But once we got onto the H-1 (Hawaii's "interstate" highway, although it's not even inter-island, and certainly not connected to any other states) most of the traffic was coming into the city, and we were going out. Things were moving much better on our side.

The route took us past Pearl Harbor and through Pearl City, up to the village of Haleiwa. We realized on the way that we had accidentally left our lunch behind in the condo, so we stopped at a supermarket in Halleiwa and picked up a couple of ready-made salads from their deli. This supermarket had a much, much larger produce section than the other supermarket we had visited. But the prices were still very high on everything -- even the pineapple. Our salads were pretty reasonable, though.

We continued up Highway 83 along the northwest shore of the island, stopping at several beaches along the way. Laniakea Beach is known for sea turtles that come ashore to lay their eggs in the sand. It's the tail end of the season, but we found one, lone turtle who had just that morning made the trek up the sand. She had a number carved into her shell, and a beacon transmitter glued to her back, so we knew that the researchers were keeping tabs on her. There were very few people around, so we got to get our photos. 

Funny thing that shows how well these turtles are adapted to the environment: This is a rocky beach, and Mary was almost on top of the turtle before she realized that it wasn't just another rock!

Next stop was Waimea Bay Beach. This was a huge expanse of sand, but the waves were crashing in here so fiercely that the lifeguards were posting "No Swimming" warning signs. A number of families who had come for a day at the beach were packing up to leave. We walked along the beach for awhile, but had to scramble to avoid getting drenched by big waves.

We continued up Hwy. 83 to a place called Shark's Cove, which sounds a whole lot scarier than it is. This is a naturally enclosed area, lined with volcanic rock, that is very shallow. The big breakers are blocked by the rocks. It's the wading pool of the north shore. Thus, it is very popular with families with small children and for beginner snorkelers. 

We waded out a ways, but the water never got more than knee deep. A bit farther out, people were up to their waists, but that was about as deep as it got. We set up our chairs on the beach, read our books for awhile, and ate our lunch salads here before moving on.

Next up the road was Sunset Beach. The waves were really coming in here! We watched a few surfers who were obviously not beginners, and listened to a small group of teenage boys bragging to one another that they could surf those waves -- but none of them actually left the beach. We guessed that many of the waves were in the realm of 10 to 12 feet in height, and they were moving fast.

Finally, we made it to Ted's Bakery. This is a well-known area lunch spot, but we were there only for dessert. The line to get in was fairly short. Mary got a pineapple-macadamia cheesecake, and I got a double chocolate cake. Both were worth the wait.

On the way back, we revisited Laniakea Beach, which was much, much more crowded this much later in the day. Parking was on one side of the highway, the beach on the opposite side, and the constant traffic made crossing difficult. When we got to the beach, we saw the same turtle we had encountered this morning, but she had moved down toward the water. She was probably plotting her escape, as she had a much larger audience around her.

On the way back to Honolulu, we took the old Highway 99, rather than the way we came. We stopped at the a Dole pineapple plantation that was very crowded, but they wanted $12 per person for a 20 minute tour, and there was a wait time of up to 2 hours for that. We looked at the prices, looked at the line, and decided we could learn about pineapple growing on Wikipedia. We passed.

Just down the road, Green World Coffee was a much less slick tourist operation. Friendly people offered us coffee samples and let us wander around their (overpriced) selection of t-shirts, hats, and premium, (supposedly) locally-grown coffee. Then we continued back to our Waikiki condo for a respite.

In the evening, we caught happy hour at a sports bar with nearly 100 tap beers and half-price pizza. Lots of people had the same idea, because we had to wait nearly half an hour for a table. But the pizza was good and the beer was better, plus there was a 24-hour surfing channel on the TV. Who knew that there was a 24-hour channel, all surfing, all the time?

Finally, we walked down to Waikiki Beach once more for Friday evening fireworks launched each weekend from the big Hilton resort. Either we got it wrong, or Covid intervened, but the fireworks never happened. It was a pleasant evening, however, to sit by the beach. There was a lot great people-watching, and the walk home showed us what a happening night spot downtown Honolulu is.

We're proud of ourselves for being able to stay up past dark, as the jet lag and heavy exercise had us in bed by 8 p.m. the previous night. Today we walked only a little over 3 miles, mostly along flat beaches, rather than yesterdays 6+ miles of steep climbing.

Diamond Head

The plan was to get going early and hike to the top of Diamond Head. Due to some marital miscommunication (yes, that still occurs even after 48 years of marriage) we didn't get going quite as early as anticipated. And even though the peak is less than two miles from where we are staying, it takes 10-15 minutes in city traffic to get there. That meant that the parking lot at Diamond Head was already full. We had to park in another lot a bit farther away.

Nevertheless, we and hundreds of other people began the climb, about 500 feet of vertical elevation with only about 1/3 of a mile horizontal. We have climbed tougher hikes, but the crowds and the necessity of wearing face masks made it seem a bit harder than it probably was.

There are still remains of the Army artillery fire control station at the top, and the views in all directions were as anticipated. The guidebooks suggest coming down on an alternate path, but we could not find any other path that was not closed off and unavailable, so we returned as we had come. The round trip took about an hour and 20 minutes.

From Diamond Head we continued east on Highway 72, along the southeast coast of O'ahu Island, to Koko Head District Park. Koko Head is less famous, but is supposed to be much more spectacular than Diamond Head. It is also a much, much more arduous climb. We skipped it. Instead, we visited Sandy Beach (which really didn't seem any more sandy than most beaches) where we watched some obviously experienced surfers riding waves considerably larger than we had seen yesterday at Waikiki. This beach was also much less crowded, and was a very pleasant place to sit and enjoy the ambiance.

After an hour or so, we continued east and northeast on Highway 72, stopping several times at overlooks. One of the first was the Hālona Blowhole, a natural formation in the lava rock where sea waves push into a cave, are compressed, and water shoots straight up out of the hole. (No photo of the blowhole, as it's very difficult to time and capture the waterspouts. But the area, above, is pretty.)

Yeah, that little bump on the horizon is Maui

We also hiked the Makapu‘u Point Lighthouse Trail. This is another very popular walk, though not quite as steep or crowded as Diamond Head. The view from the summit is spectacular on a clear day -- and today was so clear that we could see all the way to Puʻu Kukui peak on Maui, about 70 miles away, with Moloka‘i and Lanai Islands in the foreground!

On the way down, Mary spotted a disturbance in the sea, just off shore, and called me to look. There was a lot of splashing and turbulence in the water, and it almost seemed to be swirling around, like a whirlpool. A young woman, who happened to be a resident Hawaiian, stopped near us and thought that we were probably seeing a group of sharks swarming on the carcass of a dead whale or some other animal. But then it was over. Quite a sight! (But alas, nothing to photograph.)

We had packed a lunch, and stopped at Waimānalo Beach Park, in the village of Waimānalo, to eat it. This is a very pleasant spot, with beautiful turquoise water.

We then turned west on Highway 61 to Nu‘uanu Pali Lookout, which was a splendid view, but highly over-rated by the tourist books. They charged $7 to park there "all day," where there was little to do but walk to the overlook and walk back. It was the most expensive 10 minute parking space I ever bought.

The rural areas of O'ahu are much different than Honolulu, and in many ways, more pleasant. We shall be exploring more of them in the coming days. But just relaxing and enjoying the sun and warmth are also quite nice.

Dinner was at a Japanese noodle spot Mary read about, that turned out to be just around the corner from our condo. We went rather early, since we are still struggling with this time zone, and walked right in. But by the time we left, the line was out the door and down the street. Not only was the beef noodle bowl delicious, but watching the cooks scurrying around, bantering in Japanese, was kind of a kick.

Hawaiian Getaway

A few months ago, the bargain flight alert to which we subscribe (https://scottscheapflights.com) featured a round-trip fare from Minneapolis to Honolulu on Delta for only $369 per ticket. We'd never been to Hawaii, and the fare was too good to pass up, so we didn't. We booked it. I then went to work to find lodging, and found a condo in Honolulu, three blocks from Waikiki Beach, for $145 per night. Not bad! We booked that, too.

Sadly, our timing was poor, because the unusually cold and wet April weather in Minnesota began to give way to a glorious spring at just about the same day we took off. Nevertheless, since most overseas travel is still off limits, Hawaii is one of the most exotic spots we could find.

The travel day was long, but everything went smoothly. Excitement woke us before the 5 a.m. alarm. The Uber driver was 15 minutes early. TSA screening lines were short, and both the flight to LAX and the final leg to O'ahu were on schedule. The only bad part was a 5+ hour layover at LAX, but that was the price paid for such a bargain fare.

One thing that has not been a bargain is the car rental. We've seen articles in the news about how rental companies reduced their fleets during the pandemic. Now, with vaccinated people such as ourselves beginning to travel again, demand has increased quickly. We managed to get a little KIA that is unusually high mileage for a rental, and showing some wear and tear. But it runs well. Gas is very expensive here, and parking around Honolulu is at a premium. We're glad the condo comes with a parking space.

Our plane got in at 6:30 p.m., and we were surprised that it was already dusk here. We got through the Covid screening at the airport pretty quickly -- no line. And we happened to catch the bus to the car rental agency waiting for us at the curb. Google Maps works fine here, and we got ourselves checked into the condo with only minimal difficulty.

Then it was off to Walmart to stock our condo kitchen for the week. Driving in a strange city after dark is always an adventure, so the 1.5 mile trip took longer than expected. So did finding things in a new store. And some time was spent just marveling at the sticker shock over food prices. A small cart of groceries totaled over $65 at the checkout.

By the time we had stashed the groceries, we had been away for going on 23 hours, so we crashed before 9:30 p.m. local time. Of course, our biological clocks had us awake before the sun, as well.

Our condo is a small studio with a cozy feel and a little balcony overlooking other condo buildings. If we stand in just the right spot, we can see a little sliver of blue ocean between them. But it is very clean and well-maintained, and has all of the amenities we need.

Our first morning was spent just exploring Waikiki. We are just up the street from the famous Royal Hawaiian Hotel, which has been preserved in much of its 1920s grandeur. We took the obligatory photo of Diamond Head, walked on the beach, sat on a bench and watched surfers, and generally enjoyed the people-watching. If my phone is to be believed, we walked about 3.5 miles.

Back at the condo, we enjoyed lunch and a bit of R&R, during which I started writing this post....

After a bit of rest, we were reinvigorated sufficiently to return to Waikiki Beach where we put down our towels and sat reading our paperback books. By afternoon, it was much more crowded than in the morning photo, above. Only occasionally did I look up to take in the surroundings, which included a great many young women in thong bikinis that left very little to imagination. However, we also noted many, so attired, that might have benefitted from having kept imagination in place.

Around 3:30 p.m. it began to sprinkle, so we packed up and adjourned to the Maui Brewing Company across the street from the beach. It was happy hour, with $2 off on beer and $10 pizza, so we stayed for supper. The beer was good, but not distinctive. The pizza was better than average. Looking around, we were, by far, the oldest people in the place. But they have happy hour daily. We'll be back.