Key West

We departed the condo early on Monday morning heading for Key West, about 200 miles away. Nearer home, a 200 mile journey could be completed in 3 hours or so. Google Maps predicted a little over 4 hours for this drive. But the reality was closer to five. In the Keys, roads are narrow, traffic is heavy, and speed limits are low.

Our motel room was quite nice, and had both a pleasant view and free parking (very rare in Key West, where parking is hard to find at any price), but  was more than 2 miles away from the historic center of town. We had planned to walk it, but noticed that the hotel had bicycles for rent. They were similar to the bikes we rented in the Everglades, but much newer and in much better condition. It turned out to be an excellent choice. We were able to take in many more spots, and even get off the beaten track to see how people live in Key West.

One spot all the tourist guides recommend is the Southernmost Point monument. One is supposed to get a photo of oneself standing beside it, but the line to do so was a block long. So we took a picture of a couple of total strangers standing by it instead.

They want $16 per person for a tour of Hemingway’s house, and a crowded tour group indoors isn’t a great idea in a pandemic. So we satisfied ourselves with a peak at the exterior. 

Similarly, there was a big ticket price to walk through Harry Truman’s “Little White House” on the grounds of the Key West Naval Station. And again, Covid made such an indoor tour unwise. So we saw the outside and enjoyed the bike ride around the historic old houses, many of which are still used as married officers’ quarters.

We visited the piers, strolled down Duvall Street, and took in the ambiance of the island, including the chickens that roam wild all over. We were told that there were many strange and interesting people here, and we did encounter a few. But mostly we saw tourists, and more tourists, of every description.

After our long afternoon of riding and walking in the heat (a humid 80+ degrees) we found an outdoor restaurant with “happy hour” specials where we could sit and consume some refreshment. Then we got on the bikes and took the long way back to the motel so that we could enjoy one of the famous Key West sunsets.

On the way home on Tuesday, we stopped at a bird sanctuary near Key Largo where injured birds of all species are cared for, and if possible, returned to the wild. Much of the interpretive program was shut down by the pandemic, but we still got to see quite a few birds.

Then we detoured to an out of the way spot south of Homestead to have lunch at the famous “Alabama Jack’s.” There was certainly a bayou atmosphere, but we aren’t certain that the food was worth the extra miles. All-in-all, it was a pleasant excursion. The Prius performed exceptionally well, averaging nearly 58 mpg on the round trip!

Boats, Blimps, and Birds

The last few days we’ve been in vacation mode, walking in the neighborhood, sitting by the pool, strolling on the beach, and generally doing very little. Sort of like being home during a pandemic, but with the possibility of spending time outdoors. Weather has been sunny with temperatures in the upper 70s every day.

The Pompano Beach Municipal Pier is a nice walking distance from us, and a popular spot for both tourists and local fishing enthusiasts. It is also well-populated with brown pelicans, as we’ve noted previously.

Pompano Beach Airport is just 2 miles west of our location, so there is lots of activity in the air overhead. It is also one of the bases for Goodyear’s fleet of blimps. We’ve caught sight of the blimp several times. Friday and Saturday appeared to be training days, and one approach to the airport was right over the condo!

One of our favorite pastimes is to walk to the inlet near the lighthouse and to watch the boats going out to sea and returning once again. Boat traffic is particularly heavy on the weekends. Sunday afternoon was quite a parade, with boats of all sizes and descriptions.

Friday was moving day for us. The first week we were in a 2-bedroom condo on the 6th floor. This week we are in a 1-bedroom on the third floor. The 1-bedroom is plenty comfy for the two of us and the sunrises are just as colorful. We just see them from a slightly different angle.

Presidential Preserves

Wednesday we stayed close to the condo, venturing out for a couple of walks, including on the beach. We spent a good deal of time reading, as well as watching the inauguration on TV. We found a good Indian restaurant in the neighborhood and got some takeout in the evening.

On Thursday morning we waited for the rush hour traffic to clear, then took a drive up State Highway A1A. It wasn’t hard to find the road, it runs right in front of our building, and continues hugging the coast. “Highway” is something of a misnomer, as it is narrow, has many stop lights, and the speed limit is generally 35 mph or less. But it is lined with mansions and luxury condos. We drove up toward Del Ray Beach, a community of “cute little shops,” but only drove around. No shopping with Covid.

We continued north toward Palm Beach and yes, Mar-a-Lago! There wasn’t much to see at Mar-a-Lago but barricades, law enforcement vehicles, and a wall. (Did Mexico pay for it?) There was no stopping, and we got only bad photos as we drove by.

Next, we returned southward and visited two nature preserves. Although they were in separate cities, they were actually only about 2 miles apart and were very similar to one another.

The primary features were swamp and birds, though we saw one alligator (too far away for a good photo) and a half dozen or so turtles. 

At both, we walked on boardwalks over the water. The signs told us that we could expect to see 6-7 species each of egrets, herons, ducks, and owls. It was the wrong time of day for owls.

We didn’t figure out what these white birds were, but they were very large.

After some internet research, we are guessing that they are wood storks.

The Anhinga goes fishing, then perches with wings spread so that its feathers can dry in the sun. We saw many of these in the Everglades, as well.

There were a lot of photographers with very long lenses who were, I’m sure, getting much better photos than these, taken just with the iPhone.

It was a fun morning, even though we aren’t “birders.” On the way back we went through a Panera drive-thru and picked up a couple bagels for lunch. For dinner, we got take-out once again from the restaurant here in the complex.

Everglades

It was surprising how many things were closed for the Monday holiday, especially restaurants, so we had to be a bit flexible with our plans. We began with a quick trip to the supermarket for a “take and bake” pizza for the evening. We had a morning walk, and another in the afternoon. More time was spent planning an excursion for the following day.

Early on Tuesday we set out for the Everglades. It was supposed to be about a 90 minute drive to the Shark Valley entrance to the national park, but traffic made the trip a bit longer. We arrived just about the time the park opened, and we were among the first to enter. Using a website, we had reserved bicycles the previous day. The bikes were heavy, old cruisers with a single speed, coaster brakes, and very fat, under-inflated tires. But the 15-mile loop trail was paved and flat, so they would do.

It wasn’t long before we encountered this guy sunning himself along the side of the trail. He wasn’t very interested in us, so long as we didn’t disturb his nap. Before we were done, we had counted at least 40 more of his cousins along the trail. After awhile, we sort of lost count.

The midpoint of the ride was an observation tower. Even though it was probably only 50 feet or so up, one could see for miles across the flat terrain. We also watched eagles hunting for breakfast.

The last half of the loop ride was into the wind. There was absolutely nothing to block it, and not a lick of shade to be found. We were glad to be finished with it. Mary had packed a lunch, and we ate at a picnic table near the visitors center. I assembled my portable antenna and attempted a satellite pass, but failed to hear the satellite overhead.

We packed up and drove back toward Weston, Florida where we visited long-time friend Clark Kilgard. Clark lead us to a local ale house where we caught up with one another over some brew. Then it was back through the afternoon rush hour traffic for dinner at the condo.

Hitting the Beach

We were up early on Saturday morning and got to watch the sunrise over the ocean, such as it was, because of cloud cover. The first order of business was to procure some needed items. We found what may have been the largest Walmart we’ve ever been in. Then, returning closer to the condo, we visited a somewhat more familiar Aldi supermarket. 

The sun had burned off the clouds by the time we returned, and we set out walking up the beach toward the lighthouse. Because it was cool, I was in jeans. The tide was coming in, so more than once I misjudged how close to the water I could walk, and my pant legs got soaked.

The air warmed quickly, and we got quite warm on the way back. Walking in the fine sand reminded us of walking in snow. We sank in deep with every step, and felt we could have benefitted from snowshoes!

Mary had read about a sandwich shop nearby that is located in a gas station. We placed our order at a window outside, but had to go in to pay at the counter where others were paying for gas and other merchandise. Out classic Cuban sandwiches were then handed to us through the order window and we brought them back to the condo to eat.

Mid-afternoon we walked on sidewalks beside the A1A highway to the municipal pier. The pier was busy with tourists and folks casting lines into the water with fish poles. Out at the end, three brown pelicans were mingling with the tourists and posing for photos. They were quite tame and allowed people to get very close. But when a young boy caught a fish, two of the birds became rather aggressive and tried to get it for themselves. The kid’s parents were swinging fishing poles at the birds to keep them away.

We snacked in the evening and took it easy. We are still recovering from the long drive, and my phone tells me we walked a total of 5.8 miles today.

Sunday morning was cool, about 50 degrees, which the TV weather-casters here described as “frigid.” Clearly, they have not been to Minnesota. But it was about 10 degrees cooler than average for the time of year here. Things were pretty quiet, as nearly everyone was staying in. We did, too.

Mid-day, we took a short walk inland to the waterway canal, found a little park, and watched the boats going by for a bit. Then we set out on a walk the opposite direction up the A1A. 

We saw a sign for an open house at a townhome complex, and decided to explore. The realtor told us that the 3000 square-foot, 4-bedroom could be ours for about $825,000, plus monthly HOA dues of $1,000. It was very nice, but we decided not to move to Florida.

Eventually, after passing some very large and expensive waterfront homes, we found our way to a little park near the lighthouse where we could watch boats leave the waterway and head out to the open sea, and vice versa. Then we returned to the condo for a bit more down time.

By late afternoon it had gotten warm, and we decided to walk down the beach in the opposite direction we had take the day before. I got smart this time and changed into shorts. It was a very pleasant walk.

We had take-out fish sandwiches from the restaurant downstairs that were very good, then spent the evening reading.

Georgia on Our Minds

From Asheville we drove to Hilton Head Island, arriving mid-afternoon. The Prius did very well at nearly 50 mpg. The island was a bit surprising to us, though I’m not sure what we expected. It’s not all high-end condos. There are slums, too.

Ordinances forbid businesses to have anything more than very modest signage, and all businesses are hidden from the roads by trees. So, while it’s a pretty drive, we had a very difficult time finding a gas station, for example. Even a big Walmart was invisible until one was right on top of it.

We visited Mitchelville, which was a community of formerly enslaved persons created by a Union officer named Mitchel (hence the name) near the very beginning of the Civil War. Despite South Carolina’s status as a state in rebellion, the Union held the island. It was the first community in the U.S. to have compulsory education for children, and demonstrated that formerly enslaved African Americans could maintain a democratic civic government — something doubted even by some abolitionists at the time.

We also took a walk through part of the Pinckney Island National Wildlife Refuge. Our Google Maps got very confused about finding this place. It tried to take us there through a very highbrow gated community. The security guard had obviously encountered others similarly misdirected. We did find it, finally, without the GPS, and it was a very nice walk. But at this time of year, there aren’t that many birds present.

We continued to Savanna, which is just across the state line. We got a room in a B&B that was a huge Victorian house directly across the street from Forsyth Park in the Historical District. We had the Honeymoon Room (about a half century too late for us), which was quite elegant. We walked around the Historic District, all the way down to the River and the old port. The new port is one of the busiest in the U.S., but where sailing ships used to dock in Colonial times is where we were.

The B&B had a complimentary wine & cheese reception, and we sat outside on the veranda with our wine, having a socially distanced conversation with a couple from Seattle. After sunset, we walked several blocks to a restaurant we had scoped out on our previous explorations, and enjoyed a nice meal next to a high flame propane heater. The B&B had a complementary dessert waiting for us upon our return.

The next morning at first light we took another walk to further explore the Historic District. The homes are remarkably well preserved over a wide area. Then we hurried back to the B&B for our 8 a.m. breakfast reservation. It was a big breakfast, and very well done.

After breakfast, we packed up and checked out. But before hitting the road, we stopped by the very famous  Bonaventure Cemetery. Overlooking the Savanna River, the cemetery is the final resting place for veterans from the Revolutionary War to the present, as well as famous authors, and many of Savanna’s prominent families.

Then we hit the road, which in this case was I-95. It was a mess of traffic — like Minneapolis rush hour all the way for seven hours. It was a very exhausting drive. But we had no difficulty finding the resort and getting checked in. The condo is not fancy, but quite nice, and with a pleasant view of the beach and the ocean, as well as of the pool and “tiki bar.”

We got a take-out meal from the seafood restaurant right here in the resort, and brought it back to eat our our deck. And after the long drive, we were early to bed.

Snow Birds

 With the Covid pandemic raging, we have been home bodies for months. Obviously, there can be no international travel in this new year — at least not yet. 

Thanks to a very kind offer from Mark’s Aunt Lola and Uncle Bill, who live in Roseville, we gained access to two weeks in time-share condos in Pompano Beach, Florida. Lola and Bill weren’t going to use them this year because they do not believe it safe to fly, and they didn’t want to take on the drive. We agreed about the flying, but thought that we could manage the drive safely.

We departed a relatively warm Twin Cities on Tuesday, January 12 and drove almost straight through, 600 miles, to Crawfordsville, Indiana. It’s not a real scenic spot, but was a good waypoint, and we got a good price at a Hampton Inn. The Prius gave us a solid 45 miles per gallon, even into a southeast wind.

It was still dark on Wednesday morning when we pulled onto the interstate for another long day of driving. This route took us across southeast Indiana, skirting around Cincinnati, across eastern Kentucky, and through the Great Smokey Mountains of Tennessee. It was a pretty drive, and we managed 45 mpg once again, even with all the hills.

We arrived late afternoon in Asheville, North Carolina, and had enough daylight remaining to get in a nice walk in a local park in the “Art District.” This is an old industrial area being made over into restaurants, bars, studios, and galleries. We picked up some take-out bar-b-que from a place Mary had read about, and it was delicious.

Tomorrow will be a shorter day in the car, with a bit more time for scenery and walking.