Sikh Temple

Today's first stop was the Qutab Minar, basically a minaret built in the 11th century by a Mughal king to demonstrate the power of Islam. The minaret was built next to a Hindu temple that was converted into a mosque. One could see where the depictions of Hindu gods had been defaced in the conversion. The king died when the project was still early on, but it was completed by his son-in-law. It is too tall to be of much practical use as a minaret, as the mullah would be too winded from climbing more than 300 steep stairs to actually call anyone to prayer, and at 234 feet in height, it would be difficult for the call to be heard below.

There was also a rust-free, 1000 year old iron stele that demonstrated the advanced iron smelting technology of the Mughals, as well as. The foundation of a second minaret, intended to be even higher and grander than the first, lies in ruin here. This was begun by a later, Persian king who also died, but apparently without an admiring son-in-law to finish the work. This was an interesting site, but its significance was not well explained by the local guide, and we spent rather too much time there.

We next drove to s Sikh temple, one of the largest in the world, which was quite fascinating. Not only was the holy book being chanted inside, but we also toured the kitchens where 10,000 meals each day are prepared by volunteers for free distribution to all comers.

We helped prepare bread and saw huge vats of curry being stirred by barefoot men in turbans. The temple also provides a free hostel and bathing pool, all open to anyone.

We noted that on the way into the temple, people would touch a hand to their forehead, and then touch the threshold of the doorway. On the way out again, they would touch the threshold, and then their forehead. Our guide explained that this was not a Sikh exclusive, but that it was common in Hindu, Jain, and Buddhist temples in this part of the world, as well. It is a symbolic way of checking one's brain at the door. It is understood that logic is the enemy of faith, and that the brain causes evil doubts. Thus, one leaves the brain at the door going in, and takes in up again to go out into the world. It made me happy to be part of a tradition that embraces both faith and learning!

Our guide, Sujay, helping us get our heads properly covered to visit the Sikh temple.

After lunch in a Chinese (!) restaurant, we got the traditional silk rug pitch at a very pricey Kashmiri craft shop. The salesmen were so aggressive we had to leave and go back to the bus. After the others had made their purchases, the bus took us back to the hotel. We packed our bags and put our suitcases out to be taken by bus to Jaipur overnight, keeping only our knapsacks with us for tomorrow's flight to catch up with the bus.