Gozo

The nation of Malta is made up of 21 islands, most uninhabited. It is somewhat confusing, because the largest island is also named Malta, same as the country. (This is similar to the state of Hawaii, the largest island of which is also named Hawaii.)

The ferry on which we arrived departs Gozo

The second largest island in the Maltese archipelago is named Gozo. Less densely populated than Malta, Gozo has about 37,000 residents over 26 square miles (compared to almost 400,000 residents on 95 square miles for Malta). It is more agricultural, producing more milk and other ag products than its larger neighbor.

Gozo foreground, Comino beyond, and Malta on the horizon

On Sunday we took our students for a day-long excursion to Gozo. The van picked us up bright and early and drove us to the northernmost point on the island of Malta, a place called Cirkewwa. We waited in the ferry terminal with several hundred others, mostly tour groups. Our driver waited in line with the van.

Ġgantija temples

After a ferry ride of 20 minutes or so, we disembarked to find van, driver, and our guide, Joseph -- along with Joseph's 6-year-old son, Matthew. We didn't know Matthew would be coming along, and had no extra seat in the van, but he sat on his dad's lap. Our tour began at a scenic overlook, where we could look back toward Malta and also see the third largest island in the chain, Comino, which we had passed on the way.

Entering Ġgantija temples with a brief shower underway

Next stop was the Ġgantija temples. This is the ruins of a pair of megalithic temples very similar to some we have visited on Malta. They are notable because they are considered to be slightly older (ca. 3600 BCE), and because Punic graffiti carved into some of the pavement stones indicate that the temples were unearthed and being used for some purpose as recently as the 8th century BCE.

Punic graffiti in pavement stones at Ġgantija temples

Local folklore suggests that Gozo is the island called Ogygia in Homer's Odyssey, where the nymph Calypso held the hero captive for seven years in a cave overlooking a red beach. Calypso's Cave on Gozo fits that description. The cave is closed to the public, but one can stand on a platform above it and look down on Ramla Beach.

Ramla beach from the Cave of Calypso

Near Marsalforn Bay, the most popular tourist resort on Gozo, we visited the saltpans -- shallow squares cut into the limestone near the sea where the hot summer sun evaporates the seawater and leaves a crust of sea salt. Salt has been an important export commodity for Malta through its history, but these pans, dating back at least 300 years or more, are no longer commercially viable.

Saltpans at Marsalforn

We drove on to Gozo's capital city. The locals call it Rabat. Other Maltese call it "Ir-Rabat Għawdex" to distinguish it from the other city of Rabat, near Mdina on the main island of Malta. But that was too much of a mouthful for the British, who renamed the city Victoria. The place goes by all three names.

Little Matthew, the guide's son, in charming streets of Victoria

Victoria is a charming little town about the size of Decorah, but with narrow, winding streets and baroque churches. After walking around to see some of the street shrines and ornate "galleria" or balconies on the houses, our guide gave us time for lunch. Mary and I had a fabulous pasta dish with feta, olives, dried tomatoes and capers. Also, a bottle of the first craft beer encountered in Malta.

St. George is a popular guy all over Europe -- we're never sure why.

After reuniting with Joseph, our guide (no longer with little Matthew now), we walked to the citadel that overlooks Victoria. This naturally defensible hill near the dead center of the island has been a fortress since at least the Bronze Age.

Independence Square in Victoria. The city council meets in the round building.

The present castle was built in the 15th century and greatly enhanced by the Knights in the 17th century. It was used by the British up to 1868. Although only half a dozen or so people actually live here, it remains the center of Gozo's administration, with the cathedral, law courts, and other offices occupying its buildings.

Walls of the citadel

We visited the museum of archaeology here, which houses artifacts that have been discovered on Gozo and Comino dating from prehistory through the Arab occupation. The collection of Phoenician amphorae and some Arabic tombstones reusing Roman marble were highlights.

The cathedral of Gozo inside the citadel.

We met our van, discovering that over the lunch break the driver had picked up his wife and youngest son, a little boy about three years old. Apparently we travel on the family plan in Malta! There were absolutely no apologies for the fact that one of our students had to give up a seat and take the floor of the van to accommodate mother and child! As the paying customer, I might have protested, but I've already complained about late vans several times, and who wants to be the Ugly American?

Amphorae in the archaeological museum

Driving west, we encountered a major stone quarry, and continuing just a bit farther we got our first glimpse of the "Inland Sea," a place where a hole in the rock connects the Mediterranean with a bay surrounded by cliffs.

The inland sea and its connection to the Mediterranean. That hole is larger than it looks. Power boats pass through it.

Nearby is the "Azure Window," another rock formation made famous as a movie location for several films. For our students it was most exciting as the location for a scene from HBO's current series, Game of Thrones. Rocks along the shore here are full of holes and crevices, and the students would have spent all day here if we had let them.

Harleigh, one of our students, is excited to be at the Azure Window.

Last stop was the Shrine of Our Lady of ta' Pinu. This was a small chapel dating back at least to the 16th century, when it is mentioned in church records as being in poor condition. It was rebuilt in the early 17th century, but then again fell into disrepair. In 1883 a woman from the local village reported hearing the voice of the Virgin Mary as she walked past, and later miracles were associated with the site. A big Romanesque church was built onto the small chapel in the 1920s, and Pope John Paul II came here to say mass in 1990.

Shrine of ta' Pinu

Back to the ferry, our van was almost literally the last vehicle on board. No ticket is required for the ride to Gozo -- but one pays for the round trip to get back. We found it pays to be old, as our "60+" Maltese residency ID cards got us free tickets. We were all pretty tired after a long, but interesting day of sightseeing on Gozo -- even the students.