Let Them Eat Cake

April Fool's Day originated in France in the 16th century, when the Gregorian calendar replaced the previously used Julian calendar. Our main concern today was that the national strike would be over, and that we wouldn't become "fools" as stranded tourists. Turns out we had no worries.

Our goal today was Versailles, the grand chateau of three French kings. It is some 35 miles outside Paris, and required a train trip. The place also had to be open. We asked at the hotel desk and checked again at the rail station to make sure all was "Go" for the day.

King Louis's front gate at Versailles

The trains are bigger than the Metro, and don't run as often, but seem to make almost as many stops. We had to wait about a half hour for the right train to arrive, then had to wait through at least a half dozen stops as commuters got off and on. It took about 45 minutes to finally reach Versailles.

Chapel at Versailles

The village has grown up around the palace, so it's a very short walk from the train station. There was still a chill in the air as we waited in the security line, together with what seemed like an all-American crowd.

The Hall of Mirrors looked better than we remembered it 40 years ago.

Once inside, we sort of skimmed through the series of rooms with all the history of the various stages of construction and renovation, and what king (or queen) had added which garden, etc. As quickly as possible we got up to the Royal Apartments.

A hazy day over the Grand Canal

We visited this site nearly 40 years ago. Our recollection was that it was not in as good of shape back then as it is today. Also, we recall it being much, much more crowded (probably because we visited in July). The way the museum is presented today makes it much easier to imagine the lives that were lived here -- the lives of the royals, the lives of the members of the court, and the lives of the servants

Unfortunately, the fountains weren't running

The free audio guide was quite good, though the little devices to play it on were a bit quirky. We also overheard some interesting commentary from guides of tour groups and private guides hired by families. One explained that a famous painting was now in the Louvre, but the one here was "an original copy." I'm still trying to figure that one.

The Colonnade

Back in 1976 we were part of a bus tour that ran us through the high points of the mansion and then gave us only minutes to take pictures of the gardens. We had much more time to explore the grounds this time, especially the portion known as "Marie Antoinette's Estate."

Just a little cabin in the woods to get away from it all.

Versailles was built as a place for the King and family to escape the hubbub of Paris. But with all of the court following, the King soon needed an escape from his escape! The Grand Trianon was a smaller palace constructed so that the Royal Family could "get away from it all." They were not "roughing it," however. This is no little cabin in the woods.

Not the main palace, just the weekend place.

Constructed later was the "Petit Trianon" which, counter-intuitively is larger than the first. Marie Antoinette also had a fantasy village built for herself, in which she could pretend to be one of the common folk. Her "cottage" in this village was huge, with a ballroom and two billiard rooms. Just like the common folk?

Marie Antoinette's playground

After walking it all, we headed back to town and caught an early train back into the city. The sun was burning off the clouds by now, so we decided to try visiting San Chapelle once again to see if we could see it in the brilliance we remembered from 40 years ago. It was, in fact, more vivid. But because of the haze, still not the dazzling sight we recalled when we first saw it.

Sainte Chapelle, a bit better with more sun. But who can get tired of this?

After a bit of rest at the hotel, we got back on the Metro and did a walk around the Opera neighborhood. We were too late to get into the Opera house (we only wanted to look inside, the tour is expensive). We did manage to look at a "perfume museum" across the street. Turns out that perfume stills look like they could also be used with some corn mash to make whiskey!

The Opera (side view)

The Opera neighborhood is also one of the Paris fashion centers, filled with high-end shops. We looked, but did not go in, as these places are clearly out of our price range!

After a nice dinner we called it a day. We got through it without being fooled.

Location:Versailles, France