Visiting northern India and Nepal three years
ago, we learned that there are profound regional differences across this vast
and highly populated subcontinent. Thus, we wanted to see how the south
differs. Our journey to Sri Lanka and south India comprised nearly a month -- 27
days. We flew from Minneapolis to Chicago to Dubai (long flight!). After a day
and a half in Dubai, we continued on to Colombo, Sri Lanka.
Sri Lanka is a very diverse country with
several climate zones and topographies. The island has a long history of domination
by outside powers – India in ancient times, and the Portuguese, Dutch, and
British in the colonial period. They are proud of their independence and of the
struggle they have had to unify the country after a long and bloody civil war.
If there are still divisions, we did not detect them.
Highlights of our week in Sri Lanka included a
visit to a Buddhist monastery and exposure to aspects of Buddhist culture,
getting close to a large herd of elephants at Habarana, climbing to the ruins
of the ancient fortress palace at Sigiriya, and visiting the ancient capital
city of Kandy in the central highlands. We also enjoyed visiting the colonial
port of Galle, and meeting the very forward-thinking young operator of a tea
plantation.
Our time in India began in the colonial port
city of Chennai (known in colonial times as Madras), where in the course of a
day we visited slums, busy markets, survivors of the tsunami at their fishing
boats, and crashed the wedding of a prosperous American couple at one of the
oldest Christian churches in the country. Here we shifted from Buddhist culture
to Hindu culture, being introduced to the masala dosa as a favorite meal, and
participating the blessing of our bus before continuing our journey.
Adventures included visiting the first of many
large temples we would experience, being blessed by a Hindu priest, having our
fortune told by a bird, crowding onto a local commuter train, seeing monuments
carved from a single huge block of granite, and swimming in India’s longest
pool at a beautiful beach-side resort.
We toured an ashram, learned about yoni and
lingam, came to recognize some of the distinctions between Vishnu and Shiva as
Hindu gods, and enjoyed the hospitality of villagers who are just beginning to
come to terms with climate change and the need to care for the environment. We
learned about local politics, became aware of social problems such a domestic
abuse, watched performances of traditional dance, and toured a factory where popular
snacks and candies are made and packaged.
In Thanjavur we marveled at the huge Brihadisvara
Temple. We visited a shop where the traditional musical instrument, the rudra
veena, is still hand-made by craftsmen, saw artisans create bronze statuary,
and were invited into the home of a delightful family where the 15-year-old
daughter was the most charming hostess.
Continuing to Madurai, we had the good fortune
to visit a sacred temple that every Hindu hopes to see in his or her lifetime,
and to do so on the day of a major festival, when the crowded temple was filled
with processions, music, and much activity.
We continued west into the mountains, leaving
the Indian state of Tamil Nadu and heading toward Periyar in the state of
Kerala. Here we learned about various spices, how they are grown and how they
are processed. We also enjoyed a hike in a tiger preserve area, which is also
home to many other species of plants and animals.
Near the end of our journey we had two nights
on a “kettuvellam.” These are rice
barges that once transported the harvest of the endless plains of Kerala, now
transformed into “houseboats” for hauling tourists. Finally, we capped off the
journey at Fort Kochi, another colonial era seaport, where we encountered
traditional theater, “Chinese” fishing nets, and a motorcycle tour of Kochi’s
Muslim, Hindu, and Christian neighborhoods.
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