Windy City

“La Patagonia en verano es muy ventosa.” Patagonia in summer is very windy!

Today we visited a real sheep ranch just a short distance outside El Calafate. We were welcomed by Geraldo, the owner, and his team of workers. In the living room of his home he told us, in somewhat broken English and with occasional help from our local guide, about how his great-grandfather immigrated from Scotland to the Falkland Islands.

The great-grandfather later had the opportunity to rent land from the government on the Argentine mainland to create a sheep ranch of his own. And still later, the great-grandfather and a partner were able to buy land of their own farther inland — the ranch that exists today.

A fascinating part of the story for me, though probably not for others, was that Geraldo’s grandfather became very interested in radio at a time when there were no paved roads, airports, or telephones in this part of the world. Some of his radio equipment from the 1940s, and his license as LU3XE, is still on display in the house.

Outside we were shown what remains of the original house from the 1880s, as well as the sheep pens, a demonstration of working with a sheep dog, sheep sheering, etc. All of this was taking place out on the open pampas with winds blowing at 35, gusting past 40 mph! Geraldo carried on as if this was totally normal (because it is!) and his workers were going about in shirtsleeves, one wearing only a short-sleeve t-shirt and slacks. Meanwhile, we were all  bundled up, holding onto our hats and trying hard to stand up straight in the wind.

We were also taken to the fire pit where a rack of lamb was being prepared for our lunch. Conversation here centered on the economics of sheep ranching, dealing with predators (pumas, foxes, and humans), and the lifestyle of the gauchos who tend the sheep.

Finally back inside once again, we were seated at tables for a marvelous feast. The appetizer was a marinated rabbit meat that was delicious. (Geraldo explained that he always carries a rifle when out riding to check the sheep, and that a side business is shooting rabbits and selling the meat, mostly for export to Europe. The hare is so plentiful here that, during the 3 month hunting season, he can sometimes bag 1,000 rabbits a month!)

Next came the a salad, followed by the lamb and vegetables, and a chocolate cake and ice cream for dessert. All was accompanied by Argentine wine, which flowed freely. The entire meal was absolutely delicious. Geraldo moved from table to table, chatting and answering questions. He is clearly proud of his heritage and enjoys showing to others the life that his family has made here over the course of four generations.

Back at the hotel we allowed our huge lunch to digest a bit, then went for a walk, eventually finding ourselves back at the brew pub once again — this time for Friday evening Happy Hour. Not hungry for dinner after such a big lunch, we allowed the beer to provide our calories and returned to the hotel.