Yarina Lodge

We were awake before the sun and got ready quickly to join our tour director, Juan, for a 6:15 a.m. bird watching session. The morning was cool and beautiful, but the humidity was already off the scale. Others in our group were eagerly recording their sightings in their bird watching apps, and Juan was amazing in his ability to spot birds at great distance and. Identify them precisely, even before getting his binoculars up to his eyes.

We were more on the scale of “small yellow bird,” “big black bird,” “woodpecker.” But we were pretty soon able to tell the Yellow-tailed Weavers from the Jays. We also got a look at a few monkeys that were starting the day early in the trees, as well as a few butterflies.

Breakfast was an egg, empanadas, and local fruits. Then we had a few minutes to gear up for the morning walk. We went quite a bit deeper into the jungle this time, and even though we were on an established path, Juan’s younger brother, who happens to work at this lodge, had to use a machete in several spots to clear the way for us.

Juvenile Rainbow Boa Constrictor

The emphasis for this walk was on how the indigenous people use what the jungle provides in order to survive. Since Juan and his brother are indigenous and grew up in the area, they were well-versed in the topic.

We saw how a certain type of tree sap was used as an antibiotic, while the sap of another tree nearby could be processed into a paste for patching canoes or making other repairs (jungle duct tape!).

We had a lesson on how to make a single-use basket of palm leaves on the fly, in case one came across some ripe fruit while hunting and gathering. Another lesson showed how a different palm leaf is utilized to create a thatched roof that lasts 20 years.

In a lesson on how to make string, we saw Juan create one that none of us could break, and that could be used to weave a hammock or make a bow. Our efforts to duplicate the process were less successful.

We also got a demonstration on how to create a poison dart for use with a blow gun — this is a real deal and not just Hollywood. The darts are incredibly sharp, masterfully straight, and can be blow accurately up to 50 yards! We were even introduced to one of the frogs used to make the poison, but the process of getting the poison from the frog to the dart is too involved to be shown in a few minutes.

The heat of the day grew more intense, and we had a minor medical emergency when one of our group became dizzy and feared he would pass out. Fortunately, another couple on this trip are semi-retired family practice physicians, so we didn’t have to resort to tree sap or any other sort of jungle remedy.


We eventually reached the creek, where three canoes were waiting for us. These were closer to regular sized canoes, not the motorized model that we arrived in from Coca City.


Lunch was, once again, delicious, but similar to the other meals in many ways. Broccoli soups was served with popcorn, as all soups are here. The main course was meat and rice with a sauce or gravy made from beans. The mango mousse dessert was wonderful.

After a bit of a siesta, we met in full jungle gear once again at 3:30 p.m. to get back into the big, motorized canoe and head back into the jungle. We docked along the creek and walked a short distance to a lagoon between the creek and the river. Here we spotted several more species of birds. Again, our level of sophistication was along the line of “big, white bird,” and “bird with orange breast.” But the birders were eagerly jotting down genus and species from our tour director's encyclopedic knowledge.


We all got a plain wood pole and string to fish for piranha. Mary caught one, but it got away before she could land it. Others in the group caught three more tiny ones, two different species, which we examined before throwing them back,

In early evening, just about sunset, we returned to the same place. The canoe briefly went out onto the river, which gave us a wonderful view of the sunset. Back at the lagoon, we go aboard smaller canoes, three tourists and one paddler per boat, and set out on the water.

What a treat the nighttime experience was! We saw many bats, an amazing display of fireflies, huge frogs, and even the eyes of a caiman, watching us from a distance, as its eyes reflected our flashlights. But the most significant part of the experience was the sound. So many creatures announcing their presence made for a symphony of percussion.

We returned for a good meal and a nice shower before bed.