Belgrade

The depressing atmosphere we observed in Novi Sad pervades Serbia's capital city, Belgrade, as well. The grey, communist-era apartments dominate the lower levels, although new glass and steel high rise office buildings (most built by Chinese or Middle-Eastern investors) capture the skyline. 

Many beautiful old buildings from the age of empire remain in various stages of disrepair.

There's a large collection of ships in port here today -- at least four other boats beside our, and several that are larger and carry more passengers. 

Tourists crowd the city center pedestrian area, and there are many shops, bars, and restaurants there. But the natives don't appear to be enjoying these goods and services.

Our city tour spent most of its time visiting Tito's villa, museum, and tomb. There's still a longing for the "good old days" under the communist dictator, even though the guides give lip service to the virtues of democracy and capitalism for the benefit of the American tourists. 

There was an acknowledgement that Yugoslavia was only held together by Tito's strong hand, and that dividing factors had simmered beneath the surface for a long time before his death.

Our guide had little time for churches, other than to point them out as we walked by. But the tour moved so slowly that we had time to run into the Orthodox cathedral very briefly, although there was a baptismal ceremony in progress. As they say, everything that looks like gold in here really is! 

We set out with a group of fellow travelers for a hike to the old Belgrade fortress. But when the rain came, we bailed out and returned to the boat. Our afternoon bike reservation was likewise rained out. But we did get a chance, before dinner, to walk along the River Sava on the beautiful new promenade that is being built by a Middle Eastern investment company.

After dinner, the evening concluded with a Serbian folk dance troop who put on a very energetic show.