This very full day in Wellington began with a slow walk down to the waterfront, punctuated by numerous stops to point out historical plaques, markers, and other items of interest. Many of these related to World War II and the presence of thousands of American Marines here during 1942-1944.
The Marines were here to defend New Zealand, since most of this country’s military had been shipped to North Africa in 1940 to assist the British. That left these islands vulnerable when the Japanese began their Pacific offensive in December of 1941. But the Marines were also here to train for operations in the South Pacific, and for “RandR” between battles.
Apparently there was a great deal of RandR, because it is estimated that U.S. Marines fathered more than 7,000 children in New Zealand during those years!
We finally arrived at our destination, the “Taka” house, or canoe shed. This is part of a Maori cultural center on the shore of the harbor. Here, four young Maori took us through a native welcoming ceremony, complete with pressing noses in the traditional Maori greeting. We also had to introduce ourselves in the native language: “Kor Mark au, nor Minnesota au” (I’m Mark from Minnesota).
Following the ceremony we were each handed a “hoi,” which is a combination canoe paddle and war club. We were given lessons on how to use it as a canoe paddle — they left out teaching us how to use it as a weapon.
After a land drill that went on somewhat longer than necessary, we put on life vests and marched out to a real Waka, or war canoe. We paddled out into the harbor using our best Maori paddling chant, and stopped occasionally to offer a “salute” to folks on shore that involved hoisting our paddles in the air in the choreography we had been taught in the land drill (more or less) and making a “scary” warrior face with wide eyes and extended tongue. This got us photographed by a number of bystanders on shore, but did little to strike fear into the hearts of any enemy tribes.
Back on land, we engaged in a brief parting ceremony, then went next door in the same cultural center for lunch. Our meal was “hanggi,” which was basically an oven roasted piece of chicken with cabbage, and KawaKawa tea, which has a lemony flavor. It was a good meal.
After lunch, our tour leader took us on a walking tour through Wellington’s central business district. We crossed a very interesting foot bridge over a freeway into the “town square” which is surrounded by the city hall, main city library, and a museum of modern art. The sculpture atop the art museum is new, and the focus of considerable controversy.
We walked on through the old Bank of New Zealand building, dating from 1901. The bank moved out, so it is now an up-scale shopping mall. In the basement are the excavated remains of a 19th century sailing ship, demonstrating that until a huge earthquake in the 1880s, this area had been part of the harbor. Upstairs is an interesting clock that opens on the hour and gives a brief, mechanical history of early Wellington.
We were very near our hotel once again, but passed by it a short distance to the base of a funicular “cable car” that took us all up about 2,000 feet to the top of one of the high hills overlooking the city.
The cable car was quite modern, but an older version was preserved in a small museum at the top. Early riders needed to be courageous enough to allow their feet to dangle over the side, most without anything on which to hold on!
From the top, we walked down on a paved path through a very nice botanical garden. We ended in a conservatory and rose garden where quite a few people were enjoying the flowers and a small cafe. These were not all tourists, but many locals, as well.
Also nearby was a “peace flame” commemorating Hiroshima and Nagasaki, and celebrating New Zealand’s official stance as a nuclear-free zone. Controversially, this involves denying port privileges to any nuclear-powered vessels, including those from the navies of allies — even the U.K.
The group dispersed from here. On our own, we made our way through the Bolten Street Cemetery. This very historical burial ground served the city from 1855, and contains the graves of most of the city’s founders and some of New Zealand’s earliest settlers. Although officially “closed” in 1892, as the city expanded around it (graves of some notable people were even moved to make way for a freeway that runs through the cemetery today), descendents can still be buried in family plots, and we saw headstones from as recently as the 1990s amid the many, more ancient markers.
After some time off our feet back at the hotel, we went out in search of some of Wellington’s famous brew pubs. The worldwide craft beer craze is well-established here. We found a pub with a nice stout and a German biergarten with a happy hour. Our wild Friday night on the town still wrapped up by 7 p.m., however.
The Marines were here to defend New Zealand, since most of this country’s military had been shipped to North Africa in 1940 to assist the British. That left these islands vulnerable when the Japanese began their Pacific offensive in December of 1941. But the Marines were also here to train for operations in the South Pacific, and for “RandR” between battles.
Apparently there was a great deal of RandR, because it is estimated that U.S. Marines fathered more than 7,000 children in New Zealand during those years!
We finally arrived at our destination, the “Taka” house, or canoe shed. This is part of a Maori cultural center on the shore of the harbor. Here, four young Maori took us through a native welcoming ceremony, complete with pressing noses in the traditional Maori greeting. We also had to introduce ourselves in the native language: “Kor Mark au, nor Minnesota au” (I’m Mark from Minnesota).
The group dispersed from here. On our own, we made our way through the Bolten Street Cemetery. This very historical burial ground served the city from 1855, and contains the graves of most of the city’s founders and some of New Zealand’s earliest settlers. Although officially “closed” in 1892, as the city expanded around it (graves of some notable people were even moved to make way for a freeway that runs through the cemetery today), descendents can still be buried in family plots, and we saw headstones from as recently as the 1990s amid the many, more ancient markers.
After some time off our feet back at the hotel, we went out in search of some of Wellington’s famous brew pubs. The worldwide craft beer craze is well-established here. We found a pub with a nice stout and a German biergarten with a happy hour. Our wild Friday night on the town still wrapped up by 7 p.m., however.
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