On a beautiful day in Riga, we enjoyed a breakfast of great, fresh-baked pastry at our hotel and then set out for the Central Market, just a couple blocks away. This huge collection of market stalls is enclosed in an interconnected series of post-war aircraft hangers. One hanger for meats, another for cheese and dairy, yet another for fish, etc. Outside, stalls were selling fresh fruits and vegetables as well as flowers (the Latvians do love their flowers). This market was notable for its cleanliness, as well as for its overall size.
Back at our hotel lobby by 9:15 a.m. we were met by Mark’s former Luther College student, Kristen Carlson, class of ‘18, who is a Fulbright scholar this year in Riga. Kristen took us on an excellent walking tour of the city, first strolling past dozens of the city’s famed Art Nouveau buildings.
This style was popular in the period just before World War I, a time when Riga was experiencing an economic boom and rapid expansion. During these years there were sometimes as many as 500 new structures erected on what was then the “outskirts” of old Riga. These treasures have been restored and are delightful to see.
Kristen also took us to the Blackheads Hall — sort of a Medieval fraternity house for young up-and-comers of the merchant class. It was very ornate in its day, and has been restored to its former glory.
We then went on to St. Peter’s Church, which is now an art museum. The church was rebuilt after being bombed out in WW II, but unlike the Blackheads guild hall, clearly not restored to its 13th century glory.
The “Three Brothers,” three of the oldest residences in Riga, standing side by side, were another architectural gem to behold.
At noon, we attended a brief organ recital at the Dome Church, the Lutheran cathedral of Riga. The crowd was huge — possibly a couple hundred people — considering that there was a 10 Euro ticket price. Latvians like and support music! The organ is large and beautiful and it was played well this day.
Lunch time, and we headed for Lido, one of Riga’s traditional buffet-style restaurants. These “pay by the plate” buffets were popular in this part of the world long before Bishop’s Buffet opened in Des Moines, Iowa. The concept is similar, take what you want but each item has a price tag. Still, three of us ate good, traditional Latvian food for just over 12 Euros (under $13).
Kristen had afternoon obligations, so we parted after lunch and Mark & Mary toured the Occupation Museum. The Baltic countries were dominated by Danes, Swedes, Germans, and czarist Russia for centuries, and became independent states only after WW I. But that independence was brief.
Hitler and Stalin made a secret pact to divide Eastern Europe, and Stalin moved in to take over Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia. The Soviet plan was to fully integrate these countries into the Soviet Union by exporting thousands to sparsely populated regions of Siberia, and replacing them with ethnic Russians uprooted from overpopulated areas.
Hitler violated the agreement with Stalin, invading the Baltic “peoples republics,” and attempting a similar strategy of importing Germans while conscripting thousands of young men to fight against the Soviets on the “Russian Front.” Many died fighting their own kin.
When the Soviets drove out the Germans, thousands fled as refugees, and deportations took place once again. For awhile, the population of Latvia was less than 50% Latvian — they were a minority in their own land. Since the Soviet collapse, it has been another time of rapid growth and rebuilding.
After learning (or at least being reminded of) a lot at the museum, we enjoyed the gorgeous spring day with a walk in a beautiful park and a glass of good (and cheap) local beer at an outdoor cafe. One notable feature of our people watching is that, while many citizens of the Baltics are definitely fashion forward, it is very common to see women of all ages (in both Estonian and Latvia) heading to work in a style that looks very 1990s: skirt to the knee, nylons, and “sensible” shoes. Very retro, very conservative, and very prevalent.
After our down time we met up with Kristen once again for dinner. We enjoyed traditional Latvian food once again, and much good conversation. It was good to gain the insights of her year here in Riga, and to make plans to connect again when she comes to the Twin Cities for grad school in the fall.
Back at our hotel lobby by 9:15 a.m. we were met by Mark’s former Luther College student, Kristen Carlson, class of ‘18, who is a Fulbright scholar this year in Riga. Kristen took us on an excellent walking tour of the city, first strolling past dozens of the city’s famed Art Nouveau buildings.
Kristen also took us to the Blackheads Hall — sort of a Medieval fraternity house for young up-and-comers of the merchant class. It was very ornate in its day, and has been restored to its former glory.
We then went on to St. Peter’s Church, which is now an art museum. The church was rebuilt after being bombed out in WW II, but unlike the Blackheads guild hall, clearly not restored to its 13th century glory.
The “Three Brothers,” three of the oldest residences in Riga, standing side by side, were another architectural gem to behold.
At noon, we attended a brief organ recital at the Dome Church, the Lutheran cathedral of Riga. The crowd was huge — possibly a couple hundred people — considering that there was a 10 Euro ticket price. Latvians like and support music! The organ is large and beautiful and it was played well this day.
Lunch time, and we headed for Lido, one of Riga’s traditional buffet-style restaurants. These “pay by the plate” buffets were popular in this part of the world long before Bishop’s Buffet opened in Des Moines, Iowa. The concept is similar, take what you want but each item has a price tag. Still, three of us ate good, traditional Latvian food for just over 12 Euros (under $13).
Kristen had afternoon obligations, so we parted after lunch and Mark & Mary toured the Occupation Museum. The Baltic countries were dominated by Danes, Swedes, Germans, and czarist Russia for centuries, and became independent states only after WW I. But that independence was brief.
Hitler and Stalin made a secret pact to divide Eastern Europe, and Stalin moved in to take over Latvia, Lithuania, and Estonia. The Soviet plan was to fully integrate these countries into the Soviet Union by exporting thousands to sparsely populated regions of Siberia, and replacing them with ethnic Russians uprooted from overpopulated areas.
Hitler violated the agreement with Stalin, invading the Baltic “peoples republics,” and attempting a similar strategy of importing Germans while conscripting thousands of young men to fight against the Soviets on the “Russian Front.” Many died fighting their own kin.
When the Soviets drove out the Germans, thousands fled as refugees, and deportations took place once again. For awhile, the population of Latvia was less than 50% Latvian — they were a minority in their own land. Since the Soviet collapse, it has been another time of rapid growth and rebuilding.
After learning (or at least being reminded of) a lot at the museum, we enjoyed the gorgeous spring day with a walk in a beautiful park and a glass of good (and cheap) local beer at an outdoor cafe. One notable feature of our people watching is that, while many citizens of the Baltics are definitely fashion forward, it is very common to see women of all ages (in both Estonian and Latvia) heading to work in a style that looks very 1990s: skirt to the knee, nylons, and “sensible” shoes. Very retro, very conservative, and very prevalent.
After our down time we met up with Kristen once again for dinner. We enjoyed traditional Latvian food once again, and much good conversation. It was good to gain the insights of her year here in Riga, and to make plans to connect again when she comes to the Twin Cities for grad school in the fall.
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