On yet another bright, sunshiny, but cool morning we took a healthy walk out of Old Town to the Tallinn Coach Station (Bussijaam in Estonian) and booked tickets to Tartu. Buses run the 2.5 hour route every half hour on the half hour, so we did not have to wait long. The buses are quite luxurious, with comfortable seats, a seat-back entertainment screen just like on an airliner, usable toilet, and a smooth ride.
Tartu is smaller city, and it suffered more damage to its city center during WW II than did Tallinn, where most of the bombs fell on the port and shipyards. Also, as Estonia’s second city, and not the capitol, I speculate that it has not received the same abundance of EU funding for restoration. Still, the old square is charming enough and certainly open for tourists. It is also a university city, which enhances the vibe.
We had the “lunch special” at a pub on the square. It was a full meal for less than 4 Euros — the beer we ordered with it cost more than the meal. Rick Steves advises to observe where the locals go for their lunch break and always order the special of the day. Rick did not steer us wrong.
Our primary purpose in coming to Tartu was to attend a concert of the International Society for Contemporary Music festival at which one of Katherine’s band pieces was chosen to be played. The concert was held at the Estonian National Museum — a very new and modern facility on the edge of Tartu. We took a city bus to get there, and we’re getting pretty good at figuring out bus routes even when they are in Estonian (a language related to Finnish and quite difficult for English speakers).
It was a fine concert, with pieces ranging from very traditional to “way out there.” Katherine’s piece is neither of those. We got to sit right behind the composer, and she received many congratulations after the concert. We stayed out of her way, and she and most others rushed off immediately to the next concert of the day.
We grabbed a city bus to return to the Tartu Bussijaam, as we had come, and booked our return ticket. It was late enough when we got back to Tallinn that many restaurants were closed or closing on a Monday evening — even some that advertised late closing times on their doors. It is not yet the high tourist season and Mondays are slow days.
Tallinn’s Old Town Square is perhaps even more charming by night than by day, and we did eventually find a sandwich shop for a light supper before returning to our apartment and to bed. It had been a long day.
Tartu is smaller city, and it suffered more damage to its city center during WW II than did Tallinn, where most of the bombs fell on the port and shipyards. Also, as Estonia’s second city, and not the capitol, I speculate that it has not received the same abundance of EU funding for restoration. Still, the old square is charming enough and certainly open for tourists. It is also a university city, which enhances the vibe.
We had the “lunch special” at a pub on the square. It was a full meal for less than 4 Euros — the beer we ordered with it cost more than the meal. Rick Steves advises to observe where the locals go for their lunch break and always order the special of the day. Rick did not steer us wrong.
Our primary purpose in coming to Tartu was to attend a concert of the International Society for Contemporary Music festival at which one of Katherine’s band pieces was chosen to be played. The concert was held at the Estonian National Museum — a very new and modern facility on the edge of Tartu. We took a city bus to get there, and we’re getting pretty good at figuring out bus routes even when they are in Estonian (a language related to Finnish and quite difficult for English speakers).
It was a fine concert, with pieces ranging from very traditional to “way out there.” Katherine’s piece is neither of those. We got to sit right behind the composer, and she received many congratulations after the concert. We stayed out of her way, and she and most others rushed off immediately to the next concert of the day.
We grabbed a city bus to return to the Tartu Bussijaam, as we had come, and booked our return ticket. It was late enough when we got back to Tallinn that many restaurants were closed or closing on a Monday evening — even some that advertised late closing times on their doors. It is not yet the high tourist season and Mondays are slow days.
Tallinn’s Old Town Square is perhaps even more charming by night than by day, and we did eventually find a sandwich shop for a light supper before returning to our apartment and to bed. It had been a long day.
1 comment:
I’m finally reading your blog. It must have been so exciting for you to experience Katherine’s composition live! Congratulations to Katherine!!!
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