Montisola

Montisola is the large island that dominates Lake Iseo. With a total area of 12.8 square kilometres (4.9 sq mi), Montisola (sometimes Monte Isola) ranks as the largest lake island not only in Italy, but also in South and Central Europe. The peak of the island at 600 metres (1,969 feet) above sea level is 419 metres (1,375 feet) above the average surface elevation of Lake Iseo (181 m (594 ft), making it one of the highest lake islands in Europe.

We took the three minute boat ride from near our hotel across to the village of Carzano, which is on the northeastern tip of the island. Part of our group elected to walk the flat road along the lake, about a mile and a half, to another village called Peschiera Maraglio. Some rented bicycles and rode a loop of 9 km (less than 6 miles) around the circumference of the island.

But five of us, along with our tour leader, Luca, paid 2 Euros each to take the local bus (a small van just barely narrow enough to squeeze between buildings on the narrow roads) up to the village of Cure (KUR-ay). From the bus stop at Cure, we set out for Santuario Della Ceriola -- a little church at the highest point on the island.

The sign said 800 meters from Cure to the Santuario -- just less than half a mile. Easy, no? No! In that 800 meters of distance the elevation rose 140 meters, making for a rather steep grade.

We all reached the top. The chapel was very pretty, in 17th century Baroque style. The view was spectacular, and the restrooms were free! We spent a few minutes enjoying the spot before heading down.

We took the long way down. All the way down, no bus. It was less steep, but also not paved. It was a long walk, somewhat hard on the feet and knees, but at least we had gravity on our side going down. And we arrived in Peschiera Maraglio at about 1:45 p.m., where we almost immediately ran into the other group members who were enjoying lunch at an outdoor cafe.

Luca had made reservations for us at another restaurant that seemed a very long walk down the lake shore from the trail's end. But it only seemed that way. We sat and enjoyed an excellent meal. Some had wine, but after the long walk, I was ready for a beer. They had a good one -- a local red lager called "Goofy."

On the way back from the restaurant, Luca introduced us to two interesting friends. The first was a net maker, who ran a small shop on the lakefront. With Luca translating, the man explained that the island has had a tradition of net-making dating back hundreds of years. While fish nets were the origin, he now produces handbags, hammocks, decorative holders for hanging plants, etc. 

However, during the war, many men were exempt from military service because they were needed on the island to produce camouflage nets. In fact, he had recently completed and shipped several such nets to Ukraine.

A second friend was an 84 year old woman who ran a bakery, also along the lakeshore. The building was very poorly marked, so it would be easy to miss. We remarked that she could increase sales with some signage. But the bakery has been there since her father founded it more than 90 years ago, and it is well known to the locals. 

She gave us samples of a famous local cake called "spongada." Both of these visits gave us some unique insight into the local culture. The tourist industry has only taken off here in the last decade, but things are changing fast.

We rode another ferryboat from Peschiera Maraglio to Sulzano, a village on the mainland that is just a few miles south of our hotel. Luca had arranged a van to take us on the short ride back, where we enjoyed some rest.

Having already had a large lunch, we walked the short walk to Sale Marasino, the village just north of our hotel, in the evening to dine on a gelato.