The Red Train

The Bernini Red Train is the only railway in the world to be designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. We met a local guide, Roberto, just outside the station, about 20 yards from our hotel. We had a reserved car (actually half a car, but separated by a wall) on the 9 a.m. train heading to St. Moritz.

The narrow gauge train is operated by a Swiss railway, out of a separate station next to the main (standard gauge) Italian railway passenger station. Since we are just over a mile from the Swiss border, and since one needs their passport to get on the train, one is essentially in Switzerland as soon as one steps into the station.

The train climbs a mountain called Diavolezza, which roughly translates as "She-Devil." Around countless switchbacks and at least one loop-de-loop over a bridge that crosses its own tracks, the train climbs from an altitude of 429 meters (about 1,400 feet) at Tirano to 2253 meters (about 7,400 feet) above sea level.

We got off the train at the next station after the continental divide, so actually slightly below peak elevation. At the Bernina Diavolezza ski area station we disembarked the train.

We could see St. Moritz in the valley ahead of us, but as Roberto told us, it's an overpriced tourist trap. Instead, we walked a short distance to the base of the Diavolezza ski slope gondola.

Each gondola car holds more than 100 people, most of them with skis and associated gear. And we crammed in next to at least that many skiers for the ride up to the top at 2,978 meters (9,770 feet). It's a long ride, more than 2 miles horizontally, in addition to the climb.

The views along the train ride, and from the top of the gondola, were too spectacular for words. Even the dozens and dozens of photos we took (far too many to publish here) don't do justice to the actual scenery. We were fortunate to have ideal weather, as well.

Even the local guide was taking photos, despite the fact that he makes this trip five days a week, because he said he seldom has such clear, blue skies.

After a nice lunch, we retraced our route back down the mountain. The views were no less spectacular. With typical Swiss precision, the train pulled into the Tirano station right on schedule at exactly 3 p.m. and we said "ciao" to Roberto.

Luca, our tour leader, took us all to a gelateria to enjoy some local ice cream. Then we were free for the rest of the afternoon. We opted for a walk around town, following a tourist map for walks in some of the old, narrow streets. 

We popped into a couple neighborhood churches -- nothing special, just 400-year-old buildings full of beautiful art. Typical Italy. It was very pleasant, but I managed to get us lost and it took longer than anticipated to get back to the hotel.

In the evening, it was time for this trip's "home-hosted dinner." We and one other couple were assigned to the home of Salvio and Lea. Their home, on the side of the mountain just outside of town, had wonderful views of the town, surrounding vineyards, and distant, snow-capped Alps. Lea was raised sometimes in Milan and sometimes in Reno, Nevada, so her American English was equal to ours. She was also a very good cook. We enjoyed a most pleasant evening with them.