Varenna

Today we spent too long in a village called Varenna along the eastern shore of Lake Como. Billed as a fishing village, it has become a tourist town. It was nice, but we could have walked the entire place in about an hour. Instead, we sauntered, stopped, and stood.

Beginning of the path

Only about 45 minutes from Lecco, we didn't have to start early to get there. So we enjoyed the big breakfast at our hotel before checking out. The weather forecast was for clouds and rain, but the sun was shining brightly through blue skies, even if it was a bit cool and windy.

Luca, our tour leader, took us slowly along a lakefront walkway that he and the tour company booklet called, "the lovers' walk." However, the signs along the path said, "Greenway dei Patriarchy," which would suggest something more like "walk of the city fathers." Not as romantic, but give the politicians credit for voting the funding.

The views of the lake were, indeed, beautiful. Como is at its widest here, where it splits between northern, Lecco, and Como branches. The snow-capped peaks to the north make for contrast between sky and water.

There is one spot on the path that suggests love: A heart attached to the railing creates a photo opportunity for those who wish to have an "Instagram Moment."

The walk ended in the town square, which would have been quaint had it not been so full of tourists.

While most of the group stood in the square, we visited the church of San Giorgio, at the end of the piazza. which dates from the year 1313. Several Medieval frescos are still preserved, including an image of Satan devouring sinners. 

Despite the 14th century architecture, it still has the look and feel of a working parish church.

Next, we visited Il Giardino Botanic del Hotel Villa Cipressi (Botanical Garden of the Cypress Villa Hotel). As the name implies, the hotel is an old villa, the former home of a very wealthy family, surrounded by cypress trees. On the steep hillside between the villa and the lake are switchback gravel paths among hundreds of species of plants. It was very pretty, but again, we stayed much too long.

A high point of the day was lunch at Blanco Restaurant. We had a table outside, under an olive tree, and enjoyed an excellent meal and good wine. Then it was back to the bus to continue on to Tirano, a village just 2 km from the Swiss border in the Alps.

An old hotel across from the rail station will be our home here for the next three nights. Luca took most of us on an orientation walk around the neighborhood.

One stop was a "storico" (or landmark, long-established) butcher shop where we enjoyed a sample taste of a local cold cut meat called Bresaola (very good).

Then several of us landed a very nice restaurant where Mary and I shared a local pasta called Pizzoccheri, which features buckwheat pasta noodles with cheese, cabbage, potatoes, and lots and lots of butter. It was quite good.

There will be more about Tirano in the coming days.